The Long Trip Home: Archives

When most people think of Indonesia, the idyllic island paradise of Bali springs to mind. A one hour flight from the island of Bali lies theneighbouring island of Java, Indonesia's most densely populated island. It is prolific not only in the cultural history of Indonesia, but also as an island of panoramic beauty and friendly people. Not far from the rugged southern coastline of Central Java is situated the small city of Yogyakarta. The renowned centre of Javanese culture with a population in excess of three million people, Yogyakarta is peacefully nestled in the shadows of the Menoreh Hills and overlooked by the volatile volcano Mount Merapi. During the Dutch occupation of Indonesia before Independence was declared in 1945, Yogyakarta was the centre for the resistance fighters and a symbol of struggle for all Indonesians. The city even held the honoured title of being the capital of Indonesia before Jakarta.

Yogyakarta possesses many unique attractions. Thousands of tourists flock there each year to see the wonders of Borobudur—one of the biggest Bhuddist monuments in the southern hemisphere—the architectural beauty of the Kraton or Sultan's Palace, and the Hindu temple complex of Prambanan. Jalan Malioboro (Malioboro Road) is a two kilometre one-way street that runs from north to south in the centre of the city. Here is where the main activity of Yogyakarta exists. Rows of street stalls abound with every imaginable handicraft for sale. Besides the main tourist sites, Yogyakarta is plentiful in the Arts, Drama and Dance. With its unique atmosphere and friendliness, is it not surprising that Yogyakarta has been referred to as 'The biggest village in the world'.

The city is a delight for food lovers. Restaurants are numerous, serving virtually all the tastes of Indonesia, but it is the Lesehan or street food stalls that Yogyakarta is famous for. Every night around 9pm, small open-front tents are constructed along the main centre of Malioboro, and straw mats are laid out along the pavements. These street stalls offer such delicacies as Nasi Gudeg — the traditional food of Yogyakarta – Jackfruit cooked in Coconut milk with boiled rice, Ayam Goreng or spiced fried chicken is cooked slowly in woks over a kerosene cooker. Every kind of food is available here. For the less adventurous traveller, many restaurants serve Western foods, however, to experience the beauty of what Yogyakarta is, one must let the cultural beauty seep into one's thoughts, one's soul, and one's tastebuds.

To the south of Yogyakarta, where the Indian Ocean sends forth swells to crash on the shores, there is an abundance of beaches stretching for hundreds of miles along the coast of southern Java. Each is unique and holds its own history. When my long time Javanese friend and driver, Surya, suggested we visit the beach, my first reaction was to wonder why. Considering all the cultural beauty that Yogyakarta possesses, I did not believe a trip to the beach would be culturally enlightening. Luckily, I was wrong. In the Bantul Regency, twenty-eight kilometres to the South of Yogyakarta, lies the peaceful idyllic village of Parangtritis. Rugged limestone cliffs overlook huge waves pounding the shoreline; the wide expanse of sand dunes merge into the black sandy beach. Parangtritis is immensely popular. Tourists and locals alike travel there not only for the sunbathing and swimming; but also for the fishing and the tranquil setting ideal for meditation. Two wheeled horse drawn buggies called delman transport people to and fro along the vast expanse of sand. The horses aimlessly trudge along in the thickness of the black sand. The heat of the day can be refreshingly satiated with fresh milk from the green coconuts sold at the numerous palm-thatched pagodas. Aging Javanese women chatter amongst themselves in Bahasa Jawa, not caring (or even looking!) as they slice the head off a coconut with one swish of a machete.

Parangtritis is steeped in Javanese mysticism and culture. It is believed there is a south axis connecting mount Merapi, the Kraton, and Parangtritis Beach. According to legend, the Queen of the South Seas--Kanjeng Ratu Kidul-- together with her confident Nyai Loro Kidul reign over the Southern seas and all within it. It is said that any person wearing clothing coloured green will be lured into the sea and to their fate by the Queen. This superstition is firmly entrenched in the minds of all Javanese, even as far North as Jakarta. It is the legend of Parangtritis that entrances all who listen. According to the legend, Kanjeng Ratu Kidul was at one time wed to Panembahan Senopati, a ruler of the mighty Mataram kingdom, and she enjoyed his company on occasions. The Western section of Parangtritis beach—Parangkusumo beach—is believed to have been the meeting place of the two mighty rulers; that of the sea and of the land. It is also at Parangkusumo beach where the ceremony of 'Labuhan' is performed, coinciding with the inaugural commemoration of Sri Sultan Haamengku Buwono X. Each year, on the 30th day of the Javanese month of 'Rejeb', offerings are given to Kanjeng Ratu Kidul. These offerings, in the ceremony of Labuhan, consist of food, clothing, hair, and fingernail cuttings of the Sultan of Yogyakarta. The offerings are cast into the sea in the hope that the Sultan and the people of Yogyakarta will have continuous peace and prosperity. The same ceremony is held on top of mount Merapi and Lawu.

It is also at Parangkusumo beach, according to legend, that volcanic activity occurred. This resulted in a formation of rocks where the Sultan of Yogyakarta and Kajeng Ratu Kidul supposedly met to discuss the well-being of the people of Yogyakarta—and of their love for each other. A small rest house was built upon this formation of rock. On two special nights—Friday and Tuesday Kliwon according to the Javanese calendar—people come from all over to meditate in the spiritual ambience.

Parang Wedang, a mineral hot spring with continuous flowing water, attracts visitors because it is believed to have healing properties for skin ailments. Although not in need of it, I found the water to be soothing and pleasant. Small change rooms, or lidos, are available for those wishing to bathe in private. The pool, as I was told, was found by Sri Sultan Hamengku Buwono VII. He found it his duty to care for the pool. Many locals believe the place to be a sacred sight. Many meditate there and congregate to discuss matters of importance affecting their village. Further down the beach to the east there is Langse Cave, another place of meditation. The cave itself is only accessible by bamboo ladders and rattan ropes making the sojourn to spiritual serenity almost like a rite of passage. Once down at the opening, the mouth of the cave lies bare to the Indian Ocean. It is understandable that the cave is a place of spiritual perfection; a connection of oneself with the Queen of the South Seas.

Surya, my driver suggested a better view. "Of what? " I asked, knowing that nothing could be more beautiful; or even delightful. After haphazard scrambling upwards from the cave, I was soon in the safety of the car. It wasn't until we arrived a short while later, the light fading as the day came to an end, did I realize just how beautiful Parangtritis really is. Gambirowati Plateau—the lookout—is a limestone hill, pancake flat on top with a few dried palm covered pagodas. From here you can see an endless horizon of beauty. I gazed at the sun disappearing into the Indian Ocean and the lights of the village flickering below, and I thought of Nyai Loro Kidul. Perhaps this was because of the green coconuts I had drunk from earlier, the green shirt I was wearing, or the green car that was my transport to Yogyakarta.

Other articles by Barrie Lie-Birchall:

• Rain Crazed on Malioboro

• Isadora—Street Queen of Yogyakarta

• Faces From a Journal