The Long Trip Home: Archives

Shanghai Surprise
East and West collide in China's rapidly evolving city of the future
by Catherine Skrzypinski

Strolling along Shanghai's famed shopping street Nanjing Lu, remnants of the 1930s "Whore of the East" gamblers and pimps pass trendy, cell phone-chatting youths. The diversity of the 15 million people living in Shanghai is a constant reminder of a city in the midst of rapid change. Glancing up, you will notice that the skyline is dominated by cranes, a tangible example of Shanghai's rebirth. The city continues to grow with new underground stations, highways crisscrossing the city, an ultra-modern stock exchange, and the most available office space in the world. Yet, what attracts most tourists to Shanghai is the stately European architecture of the Bund and the Chinese pagodas of the YuYuan Gardens. Now is the perfect time to explore China's most bustling metropolis.

Gazing at Shanghai's famed waterfront, the Bund, most Westerners gasp, "I feel like I'm in Europe!" Back in Shanghai's heyday of international commerce, the elegant buildings were filled with European banks and shops. Nowadays, most of the buildings are vacant because of exorbitant rent fees. The promenade along the Huangpu River is a prime spot for people-watching and munching on corn on the cob. Don't be surprised if a young Chinese couple practices their English on you and asks you to be in a picture with them! The Bund is illuminated until 10 p.m.

The ferry across the Huangpu River bridges Shanghai's past and future. For only 10 cents, you can cross the river to see the emerging financial district in Pudong. Many people rave about going to the top of the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, the most unusual and tallest tower in Asia, but beware--the admission fee is almost as high as the tower.

Back on the mainland, most visitors and natives can't resist the shopping along Nanjing Lu, a cross between New York's Fifth Avenue and London's Oxford Street. McDonald's trolleys lure Westerners to the nearest Golden Arches, while there are bargains to be had at Shanghai No. 1 Department Store.

Eager to escape the hustle and bustle? The YuYuan Gardens is the perfect retreat...well, during the week at least, as the weekends tend to attract the masses. Critics slam the YuYuan Gardens as a Disney-esque interpretation of Chinese culture, but the grounds are quite picturesque, with their ponds and pagodas. Engulfing the gardens is the YuYuan Bazaar, the perfect place to pick up some souvenir chopsticks and a heaping plate of 'guotie' (dumplings) at Lao Fandian, right in the heart of the bazaar.

The world-renowned Shanghai Museum is a must-see for museum buffs and Chinese relic fanatics. The modern building houses an impressive collection of Chinese coins, calligraphy, and ceramics, as well as exhibits on jade and Chinese fashion (Tickets Y20). Afterwards, relax and fly a kite in People's Square, a popular Shanghai meeting place.

Although you'll be squished between video camera-touting Americans and snoring Japanese tourists, the Shanghai Acrobats are always an entertaining night out. Watch elegant women contorting their bodies into unimaginable positions and men balancing on ladders. Performances are almost nightly at 7:30 p.m. (1376 Nanjing Xi Lu. Tickets Y30-60).

A platter of chicken's feet doesn't make your taste buds salivate? Never to fear...Shanghai's varied cuisine appeals to the traveler, expat and the native. Looking to dine in style? M on the Bund is Shanghai's premiere Western restaurant and was recently rated in the top 100 restaurants in the world. Besides the food, many people are attracted to the spectacular view. Try their special dessert: pavlova, an airy Australian confection of ice cream, fruit and meringue. If you're on a budget, there's no need to break the bank...it is possible to spend $55 a person on dinner, drinks and dessert (M on the Bund is on Top Floor, No. 5, The Bund. Entrance on Guangdong Road).

Have a memorable nightcap at the Peace Hotel, formerly known as Shanghai's legendary Cathay Hotel. Bypass the touristy and expensive cover charge of the Peace Bar Jazz Band and head straight for the balcony. Enjoy your expensive cocktail, the ambiance of 1930s Shanghai, and the way the skyline shimmers in the darkness (Peace Hotel is at 20 Nanjing Dong Lu).

If partying until the break of dawn is more your scene, look no further than Maoming Nan Lu, a street filled with bars and nightclubs. Maoming Nan Lu is easily accessible from Shaanxi Nan Lu metro stop on line #1. Two popular expat clubs are Babylon and Judy's Too, both a bastion of 80s nostalgia. As in most cities, trends come and go pretty quickly in Shanghai, so refer to Shanghai Talk and That's Shanghai, two popular English-language monthlies.

The Shanghai Metro is a clean and speedy transportation option, with velvet cordons and bilingual Chinese and English signs and announcements. However, its reach across greater Shanghai is limited. Construction for a third line is in the works and should be completed around 2020. Until then, adventurous souls could venture onto public buses if they have a good command of speaking and writing Chinese. The best bet for getting around town is hailing a taxi. Few trips will cost more than $5-$6, but be sure to carry a business card with the name of your hotel written in Chinese characters to show the cab driver, since most do not speak English.

Despite the technological and architectural developments of the past decade, Shanghai has yet to discover its true identity. The juxtaposition of the Bund's European colonial facade and the crane infested, Star Wars-inspired Pudong skyline has given the Paris of China a bit of a schizophrenic complex. But in time, Shanghai will be shedding the cranes to unveil one of the most promising and exciting cities in Asia, if not the world.

Other articles by Catherine Skrzypinski:

• Snapshots of a Scandinavian Winter

• Buy A Vowel

• Tiptoeing Through The Tulips

• The Hidden Gems of Japan

• London Calling, Backpacking and London Spotlights

• Midnight Train to Xi'an, China Spotlight, April 2002

• Take A Bite Out of the Big Apple, New York Spotlight, January 2002