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Hotel Palacete de Cázulas—A Mansion of Memories
by John Towler

Nantucket: Nice Pants and an Attitude to Match
by James Lairdo

Old Orchard Beach
by Marie Logan

Playa Del Carmen, Mayan Riviera
Riu Playacar Resort
by Daphne Wilson

Family Fun in the Forest
by Rosalie Robison

Digging Through Mexico City's Museums
by Robert Craig

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Hotel Palacete de Cázulas—A Mansion of Memories
by John Towler

She owned two villages, thousands of acres and a magnificent palace, but only three people attended her funeral. When the Marquesa de Montenaro y Barcinas died in 1972, the Moorish home that had been in her family for more than 500 years was left to the church. They didn't want it, and eventually it passed into the hands of a consortium of local villagers who formed an agricultural cooperative. For years, the Palacete de Cázulas stood unused, unoccupied and decaying. It was sold again in 1988 but continued to decline until 1994 when restorations began. Over the next five years, it was painstakingly renovated, restored and rejuvenated. Now it is one of Spain's most exquisite country inns.

Not surprisingly, the Palacete itself has a decidedly Moorish look. It contains a huge drawing room with a high vaulted ceiling, a grand staircase, paneled dining room, games room, a library with its own interior patio, and a museum. The latter contains a copy of the original deed written in Arabic by which the mansion passed from its Moorish owner to the Marquesa's family in 1492.

The twelve bedrooms are all unique. Each is tastefully furnished with comfortable antiques and curios and some have four-poster beds. All have magnificent views and a bathroom ensuite. The rooms run from 19,000 pesetas for a standard room, 20,000 for a mini suite, 21,000 for a superior room and 27,000 for a master suite.

The grounds are equally impressive. It took two men nine months to restore the Moorish garden with its curved paths, centuries-old palms, shady bowers and exotic plants. An ancient cypress hedge borders the spring fed swimming pool and the garden balcony overlooks the entire valley and the unspoiled villages of Otivar and Lenteji. The Marquesa's private chapel takes up an entire building in the garden. The chapel and the hidden religious grotto beside it were recently restored. New tennis courts are the only concession to the 21st century.

This is a romantic spot where peace and tranquility prevail. Although the hotel was filled when we visited, we seldom encountered another guest except at mealtimes. We did meet one guest who told us that he had come for one night and then stayed for five, dividing his time between excursions and relaxing in a hammock with a good book and a glass of fino. A continental breakfast is included in the room price and lunch and dinner are available. Dinners are served only to registered guests, however, many visitors come for lunch. Reservations are required.

The Palacete itself is intriguing enough to delight those who manage to find it, and the food and wines are equally interesting. The hotel specializes in Tablas de Granada; a selection of regional delicacies served on wooden platters. This selection of salads, breads, meat, fish and fruit feature the local produce. Lunches are usually taken in the garden bar in the shade of a huge jacaranda. Dinner is served in the dining room and consists of whatever creation host Brenda has decided to prepare. If our experience were typical, few would ever be disappointed. In keeping with the atmosphere, the meals are unique and delicious. Fruits and vegetables come from the village, which sits in a tropical microclimate and the fish arrive daily from the sea that is only 30 minutes away. The Palacete offers a selection of some of the best food and wines in Andalucia.

Guests who manage to tear themselves away from the hotel find themselves faced with more than enough to do. Nearby sporting activities include windsurfing, water-skiing, sailing and scuba diving. There is also golf, horseback riding, mountain biking, or hiking in the Sierras. If you are very enthusiastic and very well organized, you can ski, golf, and swim in the sea all in the same day. As for sight-seeing, the city of Granada is only 55 minutes away. Its Alhambra Palace is one of Spain's most visited monuments. Granada's gardens (El Generalife), and the city's old Albaic’n quarter are on UNESCO's World Heritage list. The local villages sit in a tropical valley beside the Rio Verde and are surrounded by chirimoyo (custard apple) and avocado plantations while the nearby coastal towns of Nerja and Almuñecar (45 min and 30 min away) have plenty of shops, restaurants, bars and street markets. Everything can be done in a one day excursion.

The colorful history of the Palacete adds an extra touch. For many years, the Marquesa and her family employed most of the local population on their estate and lumber mill. Her father was very powerful. Legend says he took advantage of many of the local ladies. Apparently, this happened once too often and he was shot by a villager one evening as he rode home after a tryst. According to the story, the police herded every male into the village square in Otivar where they were told that they would be held indefinitely until the killer stepped forward and confessed. When every man stepped forward, the police gave up, and the crime remains unsolved. The Palacete has also seen its share of violence. It was attacked by communist troops during the Spanish Civil War and the Marquesa was forced to flee on foot to Almuñecar. The troops ransacked and looted the mansion, burning valuables and desecrating the chapel. The Marquesa's costly china received special treatment—it was systematically smashed by rolling it down the hills. Following the war, a regiment of Moroccan soldiers was billeted at the Palacete. They must have been an unruly lot as some of the buildings were used as a prison and the tiled picture on the tower was used for target practice. The bullet holes are still visible.

Apparently the Marquesa ruled the valley with an iron hand and was quite unpopular. The situation is different today. The new owner/managers Brenda Watkins and Richard Russell-Cowan have become a welcome part of the local scene. Of course, the fact that they use local labour, actively support the local merchants, and speak fluent Spanish has also helped.

The Palacete de Cázulas is an unusual blend of history, a small hotel and a private home. It is relatively undiscovered, but it is not for everyone. There is neither air conditioning nor central heating. In the winter, guests toast themselves in front of roaring fires in the huge stone fireplace and heaters are placed in the rooms. There are no telephones, or mini bars in the rooms, but phones, faxes and emails are available at reception. As for drinks, there is always the bar and, if it isn't open, there is an honesty bar in the salon where you simply record what you use. Best of all, you will never see a bus or a packaged tour, although at times the hotel is taken over for weddings and business meetings.

Depending on your nerves and point of view, getting there may or may not be a delight. The countryside coming from the coast is mountainous and offers breathtaking views of fertile valleys. However, the road to the Palacete is not for the faint of heart. It is a small, unpaved road like you might typically find in Spain. It narrowly borders the cliffs and, once on it, you are committed to going to the end because there is no place to turn off. However, after a few white knuckled moments, you find yourself at the gates of the Palacete. Once inside, you realize the trip was more than worthwhile.