The Long Trip Home: The Richelieu

Montréal Montage
by Catherine Skrzypinski

Mama Montréal
by Rachael K. LeValley

Old Quebec Barn at Recall
by Tom Sheehan

The Richelieu
by Habeeb Salloum

The rain was pouring when we left Montreal to begin our journey to the Richelieu Valley - a region full of history and modern day tourist sites. It had not let up when, after an hour drive, our bus stopped in front of a boathouse in the Lake Saint-Pierre archipelago at the merging of the St. Lawrence, Yamaska and Richelieu Rivers. Quickly our group of twelve scurried into the boathouse and were soon donning bright yellow rainsuits. As we walked down to a tiny dock where two small boats were waiting for us, one of our group members remarked, "Look at us! Don't we look like penguins waddling to the water?"

A few minutes later our two boats, each with their own guide, were winding through the water channels of the Biosphere Reserve - a huge wetland area saturated with water encircled islands. Recognized by UNESCO as a World Biosphere Reserve in 2001, the area edging the city of Sorel-Tracy, includes 103 islets and water channels, making up 40% of all the St. Lawrence wetlands. These shelter an exceptionally rich plant and animal life. The region is home to more than 167 species of nesting birds, close to 70 species of fish and is the largest freshwater waterfowl staging area on the St. Lawrence. It is also the nesting spot to the largest heron colony in North America.

As we glided along in the water, I could see, through the mist of lightly falling rain, the beautiful flora with trees whose roots like those of the mangrove trees were growing out of the water. All the islands were covered with a thick layer of greenery, dotted here and there by tiny babbling waterfalls, bird nests and cottages built on stilts by the city folks who come here to fish or just enjoy the wonders of the outdoors.

We relaxed in our wet boats as we moved in the shade of gigantic trees, all the while listening to the chirping of birds hidden in the shrubs or flying overhead. It was an undisturbed and calming atmosphere - nature as it was meant to be. In this world of dreams where one can easily escape from the overwhelming present, my seat companion sighed, "I do not even feel the rain. It's so peaceful here."

Leaving this idyllic haven, we were soon on a bus driving along the 100 km (61 mi) long Richelieu River - the heart of the most strategic river networks in North America. Linking the St. Lawrence with Lake Champlain and then by canals the Hudson River, this collection of waterways was once a part of a crucial water system running between Montreal and New York.

Before being discovered by Samuel de Champlain, the Iroquois Indians used the waterways as a pathway for trade and war. After the British and French colonization of eastern North America, it became an important pathway for traders as well as a roadway of invasions and counter invasions by the British, French and, later, the Americans. Above all, until the advent of the railway, it was the route by which the riches of the continent were conveyed to the Atlantic coast.

It was an undisturbed and calming atmosphere - nature as it was meant to be.

Today, travelling through this magnificent far-flung heritage corridor, pleasure boaters and other water enthusiasts as well as bikers and hikers have replaced the one time birch bark canoes, commercial steamships, warships and forest adventurers. The complex of waterways, edged by a fertile landscape, continues to be an important pathway for those seeking the pleasures of the outdoors and the excitement of water travel.

I was thinking about the corridor's history, when we reached the impressive Fort Chambly, located at the foot of the Richelieu Rapids. A bastion overlooking the Richelieu River, it once protected New France (today the province of Quebec) from British attack. Dating from 1711, the fort, the last fortress in New France to fall to British forces, withstood the upheavals of history and was restored in 1983. Today, for tourists, its exhibits recount key moments in the history of New France.

After touring the fort, we stopped a while at a daily presentation related to the everyday life of a French soldier. After one of our tour group members donned a uniform from that era, pictures were taken and we then left for the nearby Fourquet Fourchette Restaurant, specializing in traditionally brewed spicy beers and the gastronomy of New France.

Overlooking the Richelieu River, the entire site is inspired by life in the 17th century - in costumes, furniture, music and other entertainment. In this historic setting, we were served by waiters attired in the dress of New France, an assortment of spicy beers, tidbits of Quebec and Indigenous peoples' dishes like smoked game, smoked fish, Quebec cheeses, game and bison sausages and much more.

As we left the restaurant, happy and full, our group was divided into two groups. The more energetic ones chose to bike on a part of Quebec's 2,500 km (1,553 mi) of biking trails, to our next destination Saint-Jean-Sur-Richelieu; while the others like myself, explored the town of Chambly by foot then followed by bus the 20 km (12.5 mi) Chambly Canal with its nine locks still operated manually, to Saint-Jean. Both by bike and by bus, the short journey gave a taste of the delightful countryside in this part of Quebec. We stayed the night in Saint-Jean at a quaint, historic hotel.

Well-rested, the next morning we drove a short distance to Fort Lennox, built on an island in the middle of the Richelieu a few miles from the American border. The British erected the Fort in the early 19th century to protect the British colony of Quebec in event of an American invasion. One of the most authentic British fortifications in North America, it has become a mecca for school children and tourists.

After touring the barracks, guardroom and officers' quarters, the guide re-enacted, with us as his guinea pigs, the life of a 19th century British soldier. Afterwards, the guide bid us adieu, sending us on our way toward the Canada-United States border to learn more about the rich history of the area. As we left, my colleague, a history buff, turned to me saying, "Before we cross into the U.S. remember the Richelieu and its forts have a connected history with America's Lake Champlain and its connecting locks and rivers. You have seen the Canadian/British side of that once great Northeast North American waterway. Tomorrow, no doubt, you will be familiar with the American version. Historians have their own view of history."

"Who is right?" I thought to myself as we had our last look at Fort Lennox. "History is always written with a bias."

Some other articles by Habeeb Salloum:

• The Land of the Kasbahs

• A Journey to an Unspoilt Nature Preserve