|
Archives
Landscapes/ Tiptoeing
Through The Tulips ParangtritisA
Beach Not Too Far lParma
and Modena A Glimpse of Hell Nantucket: Nice Pants and an Attitude to Match Hotel Palacete de CázulasA Mansion of Memories Shanghai Surprise Old Orchard Beach Playa Del Carmen, Mayan Riviera Family Fun in the Forest Digging Through Mexico City's Museums
|
Landscapes/Cityscapes Tiptoeing
Through The Tulips The gags began even before I packed my bags for the Netherlands. My best friend prepared me for my move overseas with an Amsterdam survival kit a sexy pair of lingerie to parade around in the Red Light District, a bong to enjoy Amsterdams finer pleasures and the Diary of Anne Frank; essential reading for the long flight. On Christmas morning, I found a plastic bag filled with oregano in my stocking. Friends flocked to the nearest travel agency to book flights to Amsterdam so that they could visit classy museums like the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum and of course the Sex Museum and also to sample the citys most famous delicacy the space cake. Their silliness aside, I knew that there was much more to the Netherlands than legalized prostitution and a tolerance of cannabis. In fact, most of the Dutch seem to actively ignore these dens of inequity. The inhabitants below sea level are bursting with equality, liberalism and above all, friendliness. My first impressions of the Dutch after I landed at Schiphol were that they answer their cell phone by identifying themselves right away (Hi, this is Bram) and they are more than willing to help with directions and information about their beloved country. Just dont forget to pack a day planner--the Dutch plan their lives around their diary. Delirious from jet lag, I wandered around Utrecht, my new home, to the nearest supermarket to stock up on some essentials. The Albert Heijn supermarket chain is a national institution although the prices are higher than some other chains, its pleasant shopping atmosphere with fresh food displays and soft rock music faintly playing in the background attracts both students and seniors. Much to my surprise, the carton of milk that I just purchased was sour, as I violently spit out the swill into the sink. Little did I know at the time that I accidentally purchased buttermilk, a heavily creamed milk concoction that most Dutch drink at lunch time. Definitely an acquired taste! After a couple of days, I discovered that most of the Dutch do speak English, but I figured it would be to my advantage to try and tackle the complicated language. The word strippenkaart creeped into my vocabulary, as I found myself using public transport to get around Utrecht and needed a ticket to board the bus. The national strip ticket (strippenkaart) can be used on any bus, tram or metro in the Netherlands. But the fun began when I told the bus driver that I wanted to get off at Waalstraat since my Dutch pronunciation is terrible, it sounded a lot like Wall Street to the bewildered bus driver. Before long, I began to understand why the Dutch complained about traffic jams so much I felt like I spent more time sitting on the bus at rush hour than I did studying for classes. It was time to live like the natives and buy a bicycle. The Dutchs prized possession is their bicycle. As I quickly discovered, the country is infested with 16.5 million of the contraptions (the highest density in the world). Pedestrians do NOT have the right of way, as Ive been warned plenty of times by the ominous ring of the bike bell. There is a thriving black market industry for bikes, and if you take a walk on the wild side to the nearest Centraal Station after midnight, there are plenty of junkies ready to peddle their stolen bicycles for hashish money. Some of my friends here have bought a bike for as little as 10 euros ($12), so their locks are worth about five times more than the bike itself. Before the transaction, you are required by law to ask the junkie, Are you a policeman? Sounds like a pornographic pick-up line used in the Red Light District to me!On the surface, the Netherlands is a safe country, but it is wise to use the same amount of street smarts as you would in New York. Dont be fooled by the Netherlands laid back vibe! Violent crime is unusual but theft, especially pickpocketing, is a huge problem. Every Dutch town and city has at least one street market (markt) and tourists should be advised that this is the place to go to pick up a bouquet of tulips and to have your wallet stolen if youre not careful. I learned this lesson my first weekend in Holland, as my wallet was swallowed up amidst the market crowds on a bustling Saturday afternoon. Apparently, there are more pickpockets lurking on the cobblestone streets of Utrecht than there are in Times Square in New York City. I reported the incident to the local police, but figured the procedure was just a formality in order to get my money back. I was quite surprised when my wallet turned up a couple of days later! Withoutthe cash, of course. While I was an Undutchable, I admired the paintings of Vermeer and VanGogh, bought a diary, fell off a bicycle, befriended the Dutch police and pickpockets and ate Chinese-Indonesian takeout. But Im afraid I never enjoyed the buttermilk or the bong, for that matter. Other articles by Catherine Skrzypinski: Classical Greece: a photojournal Snapshots of a Scandinavian Winter London Calling, Backpacking and London Spotlights Midnight Train to Xi'an, China Spotlight, April 2002 Take A Bite Out of the Big Apple, New York Spotlight, January 2002 |
|
home | in this issue | landscapes/cityscapes | travel journals | the road less traveled | fiction & poetry |
|
|